VIDEO 3- HD THERMOSTAT COLLECTION Circa (1986-1994) Honeywell Chronotherm T8082 12-30V Single Stage Heating and Cooling thermostat equipped with a single mercury switch. See video for information: Any other questions- please ask. Although I am the biggest fan of liquid mercury- please read disclaimer. Disclaimer: Mercury is dangerous- although this small of an amount poses no significant health threats if released- Devices that contain mercury should be handled with care. In the event of a spill- proper authorities and cleaning techniques should be consulted.

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MOST OF ALL DO NOT BREAK GLASS SWITCHES-BULBS TO PLAY WITH THE MERCURY- THIS IS DANGEROUS AND STUPID!

Rob: I'm thinking that your thermostats are not likely the problem. If the geo units and the thermostats are keeping the house at 21 (not higher, not more than a degree or two lower), then they're likely working OK. Your energy use may be just fine, or may really be too high - there's really a couple of things we need to know. Your have 9 tons worth of heat pumps - if your house really requires that much heat, I'd guess a HE Nat Gas Furnace would have a monthly bill well above $250.

Aug 15, 2018 - User manual for the device Honeywell Chronotherm IV T8600D. Online user. qhrzxlj. Be the player with the most frogs left in the tree at the end of a round.

Do you have a 'heat loss' calculation for the house from your geo installer showing the peak number of BTUs required at a particular outside temperature design point? The experts here can help if you give them the right info - there's some really knowledgeable people here. (Not me - I'm just a homeowner who's been lurking around this site and learning more about this subject than I would have ever imagined) The water in and out temps are a good start, but don't quite tell us enough. A 3 degree difference between water-in and water-out temp might be ok for a unit running in first stage, but might seem on the low side for a unit running in second stage assuming that water flow stays constant Climatemaster's manuals suggest that in 2nd stage, 'normal' for your 6 ton unit is about 4 to 10 degree temp drop, depending on how many gpm are flowing through the unit. For your 3 ton unit when running in 2nd staqe, 'normal' is a 4.5 to 10.9 degree temp drop. That's a pretty big spread.

What we really want to know here are these separate readings for each of your two units - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 1 - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 2 That's 16 temperature readings in total - just kick up or down the t'stat to get the unit into the right stage. You should be able to tell what stage the unit is in from the display on the t'stat, or the Y1 and Y2 LEDs inside the unit on the ECM board. Temps here should be measured right where the air enters and leaves the unit, and where the water enters and leaves the unit. An inexpensive digital meat thermometer will do nicely to gather these temps, if you want to do this yourself instead of bothering your installer. You may have P/T test ports installed on the water lines which are meant for measuring these temps.

If not, tape the thermometer to the outside of the pipe where it enters or leaves the unit to get a fairly accurate reading. From those temp readings, and your climatemaster manual (or the formula HE (Btuh) = TD x GPM x 500), we can figure out if the 'HE' (Heat of Extraction) is within spec for each of your units. It would also be good to know if you have any daytime or nighttime setbacks programmed into the thermostat, and to confirm whether all the breakers for the backup electric heat strips are off. If you've got a large nighttime setback and your heat strips are being used to bring the temperature back up each morning, that'll cost some money.

Others here with more knowledge than me can chime in on what I've missed (or overcomplicated). Geonorth New Member Posts:22 17 Feb 2010 10:05 PM.

I can understand, I was pretty shocked with my electric bill. Good news is that it drops off a lot in the summer. Here are my actual costs from 2009. Itr acknowledgement status. They are very rough as some months they estimate the bills but perhaps the data will help: Jan 144.77 (estimate not reflecting geo use) Feb 194.61 (estimate not reflecting geo use) Mar 577.75 April 729.96 May 508.96 June 116.71 (overcharged for May) July 247.26 August 265.06 Sept 214.36 Oct 317.26 Nov 230.08 Dec 183.29 (estimate) Jan 2010 $385.00 Electiricty total for 2009 = $3727.02 Electiricty total for 2008 = $2264.44 Difference = $1462.58. Factors to consider: - ClimateMaster T27 6-Ton - Home: 3100 sqft main level, approx 2000 sqft second floor, approx 1500 sqft basement finished - Location close to Newmarket, Ontario - Electricity rose in price from 2008 to 2009. Not sure the exact amount but my guess is about 5%. - Oil Heating in 2008 was about $3600 - Includes switch to 80 gallon electric water heater, well insulated - Don't know if I agree with the R2000 comment - our home is extremely well insulated, I haven't seem this level of insulation in other homes, I guess that depends a lot on the builder - T-Stat at 68F low / 78F high - I have an electric aux heater but turn off the circuit breaker so no aux heat.